2025 HYUNDAI Kona

While slowing down from highway speed during hot weather, the front passenger door suddenly became unlatched and partially opened. A warning alert sounded, and I had to pull the door closed. There were no prior warnings or symptoms, and the dealer has not been able to reproduce the issue.

Engine light was on - I was told by Belmont Enterprise on Sept 17th to keep driving the vehicle even though it needed repairs immediately.

This is second time all electrical has gone dead in the car. First time I took car in for an update and now something is still draining the battery. I have read multiple posts online of this issue. The car has less than 5000 mile on it

The cruise control operation is unusual and the speed can vary greatly while it's engaged in moderately hilly terrain (not extreme) on the interstate ([XXX] through Kentucky and Tennessee). With the cruise set at interstate speeds and starting to climb a hill, the speed can drop by as much as 6mph below set point as the cruise control very, very slowly starts to increase throttle to compensate for the grade. Eventually it will stop the deceleration at that up to 6mph speed below the set point, before slowly starting to accelerate back up to the set point. One instance I timed was 22 seconds between the speed first falling below the set point, down to 6mph below, before recovering back to the set point. Sometimes it overshoots the set point by 2mph, meaning it could cause you to exceed the speed limit and/or your intended driving speed if the uphill is long enough for the speed to fully recover itself. It is not an issue with vehicle power available as I can easily maintain an exact speed through the same hills using the throttle manually without cruise control, it is only an issue with how the cruise control is programmed or executed. An 8mph variance with cruise control on the interstate in non-extreme terrain is a safety concern because it makes the vehicle unpredictable by other drivers who are trying to time their maneuvers around trucks and other vehicles and when my car suddenly slows significantly next to them they have to suddenly change or abort their maneuvers. It has not been reviewed or inspected by anyone else. It is a rental vehicle and not available for inspection by request from me, but may be from the owner. There were no warning lights or any other indication there was a problem recognized by the vehicle. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

See attached document for complaint.

Significant Mechanical and Drivetrain Problems: ◦ Loss of Drive Power and Sluggish Acceleration: Reported as early as [XXX] ("bumpy driving, grinding and clanking noise"), with issues worsening by [XXX] ("slower acceleration, bumpier ride, metal clinking and cracking sounds"), and most severely on [XXX] ("car shifts hard to the left then goes back and forth (wobble)," "greatly reduced" power, and "snapping" noises). You've had at least five repair attempts for these issues. ◦ Vehicle Shaking/Wobbling: This has been a recurring complaint since [XXX] ("car shakes when accelerating") and continued through multiple visits, including [XXX] ("wobbly feeling"), [XXX] (shifts "back and forth (wobble)"), and [XXX] ("bounces excessively"). ◦ Loose Steering/Difficulty Turning: You've reported "difficulty turning" and "resistance when turning left," with a feeling of "less control" or "lack of control" while turning. This was noted on [XXX], and persisted through [XXX], and [XXX] ◦ Noises from Underneath the Vehicle: Complaints include "grinding and clanking noise" (XXX), "loud noises" ([XXX]), and "metal clinking and cracking sounds" (XXX), and "snapping" noises (XXX). • Electrical/Infotainment System Malfunctions: ◦ Interior and Exterior Lights Turning Off While Driving: On [XXX], all interior and exterior lights turned off for approximately 3 seconds while driving. ◦ BlueLink Service and Infotainment System Disconnects/Shutdowns: ongoing issues with BlueLink service, including loss of connectivity and interruptions. • Numerous Repair Attempts and Days Out of Service: ◦At least eight separate service visits for these issue INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Mushy brake pedal after 1000 miles This just started yesterday, seemingly out of nowhere. When I push the brake pedal it's mushier than it used to be. If I push hard, I get more resistance at first but then it slowly sinks toward the floor as a I continue to press. If I push softer then it just sinks toward the floor. I still have plenty of stopping power. If I push the pedal repeatedly then it builds up more resistance ("pump the brakes") but then the resistance calms down and it becomes mushy again.